Taking Measurements

It is very important to start by taking an accurate set of measurements. Some people go straight to draping as in the Kentwell Bodice. But by drafting you will be cutting down on the error factor; with a draping half the body it does not take into account the drape shifting off center when drawing or the fact that people are not A symmetrical.

Download and print off the handy measurement sheet by clicking on the image. By following the instructions below you can then record each measurement on the sheet.

Check in a mirror or have a friend check to see if one shoulder is higher than the other. If one is, then take the measurements from the side that is higher. If there are great differences to the halves of your body then you will want to take a set for each side.

click to download download and print out the measurement guide

	1. To find your natural waist take a piece of string and hold it around your mid section. Bend side to side; where you fold, slide the string into place and tie VERY tightly. Tying the string tightly will keep it from slipping or sliding into a different place while you take your measurements.

	2. When drafting you are looking for common points on the body that don't shift or move but are always in the same place. The first one you need to find is the bump near the bottom of your neck. This is the first thoracic vertebrae and signifies where your neck ends and your back begins. It is different for everyone so be careful to make sure you have it.

		3. Place your measuring tape on the first thoracic vertebrae and measure the distance from the vertebrae down to the string always being careful to keep the tape perfectly straight.

		4. Place the tape close to the neck, but before it starts to bend and measure straight down to the string. Using the shoulder seam on a tight fitting t-shirt can help.

		5. Place the tape on top of the shoulder where the scapula meets the arm and measure straight down to the string.

		6. You will want to measure close up into the arm. If the armhole is too wide you can chafe, if it is too tight it will rub. Place two fingers in the armpit then measure from just below them. Because the model has raised her arm so you can see the tape it looks like I have started to measure far lower than it should be.

		7. Measure along the string at the waist. On the form you will divide this measurement by 2.

		8. At the same point wear you took the underarm measurement straight across the back to the other armpit. This will also be divided by 2.

		9. While you are taking this measurement note down how far the lower shoulder line is from the centre back (the spine) and how far the upper shoulder line is from the centre back.

		10. Place the tape close to the neck, but before it starts to bend and measure along the shoulder to the top of the arm. You should be able to feel where the clavicle meets the scapula.

		11. Measure the distance between the top of the shoulder and the first thoracic vertebrae.

		12. Now for the front. From the scapula/arm joint to the string.

		13. A Tudor bustline (bustline = the widest point of measure around the body at bust height) is much higher than a modern one. The bustline is usually same height as the armpit. To get a good measurement, lift the bust upwards and inwards. Then measure from armpit to armpit. This will be divided in half on the form.

		14. While you are taking this measurement note down how far the lower shoulder line is from the centre front (the sbreast bone) and how far the upper shoulder line is from the centre front.

		15. While keeping the bust lifted - do the upper shoulder to waist/string measurement making sure the string has not shifted.

		16. This is the shoulder to breast bone measurement - best taken while the bust is still lifted (but my model giggled too much ;) The point you want is direct dead centre on the bustline between the breasts on the breast bone.

		17. Then from the breast bone to the waist. If this were a pattern for a doublet or partlet then the measurement would be from the hollow of the throat to the string.

		18. Finally across the waist at the level of the string - which will be divided in half on the form.